How To Repair A 1977 Thunderbird Vacuum Motor
I'm the top expert here afterwards working on the associates line building the '77-'79 T-Birds. I worked from the front of the line to the end and everywhere inbetween during that time. I've likewise owned many of the '77-79 birds over the years. Everyone else and so far is right here. The headlight doors are actually fiberglass not plastic on the '77-79 Birds. All were vacuum operated using a vacuum operated diaphram behind the grille and front bumper to open and close the doors. Vacuum would close the doors ,no vacuum would open the doors so if you lost vacuum you could notwithstanding bulldoze the machine at night There were likewise check valves in the lines to go on the doors open with no vacuum and for access to servicing or replacing headlight bulbs. Now, you are looking at a 37 year old car with 37 year old rubber vacuum lines that have been subjected to tons of underhood engine temps of over 500 degrees for many years and too perhaps (depending on where you live) sub-freezing temps too. This can practise havoc to Whatsoever safe product. Your headlight switch consists of being electrical and vacuum operated and then electrical contacts could be corroded but probably either the plastic ports on the switch itself are dryrotted & cracked and leaking vacuum or your 25 feet of condom vacuum hose running from the switch to the diaphram is dryrotted and/or croaky somewhere and losing vacuum along the way. Even a pinhole will tedious things downwardly. First thing to do is to lubricate all the contact points that move with the doors with some PB Blaster(better than WD-40) Adjacent would be to replace all iii of the hoses and check valves from the switch to the vacuum canister backside the front grille ($40-$60), if that doesn't solve the problem, so cheque the vacuum tank for rust holes (information technology's metal and could take pinholes in it) Replace or repair holes with ii-part epoxy. Next would be to alter out the switch ($80-$120). last affair would be to supervene upon or repair (could also be rusty with pinholes) the vacuum canistor behind the grille. Goose egg left to ready after that. The problem of the eyelids opening up too presently is a common problem with our Birds. The eyelids should stay closed for a week or so. If not, there are some fixes that nigh guys can deal with effectively--if you're patient. In order of priority here are the sources of the problem: 1) Leaky headlight switch (located under the dash). Even new NOS switches leak due to sitting on the shelf for thirty years. Place your head under the dash (motor off) and listen for a subtle hiss. The hiss may exist ephemeral. Make certain the three vacuum hoses are fitted securely to the switch itself. The 1977-78 switch is slightly different from the 1979 switch. The earlier switch is different if you lot accept the visability group on your car or non and then brand sure you lot get the correct switch for a '77. With the visability group you will accept an extra plug connecting to the switch. ii) Leaky check valve: small-scale aluminum valve (three hose connections) located on the driver-side fender apron. 3) Poor connection of vacuum line to the vacuum port on the back-side of the intake manifold. Remove your air cleaner. Use a strong light to inspect the connection. Cutting off a flake of the hose and re-plug information technology back into the port. 4) Vaccum air tank: the tank where the vacuum is stored (to keep the headlight covers closed) is located under the forepart-portion of the commuter-side fender (out of sight). Yous access it by removing the radiator overflow tank and the 2 horns. Detect the vacuum line plugged into the side of the tank. Check for a leaky connection there. Cut off some of the line and re-plug it in. The tank may take adult a leak likewise. 5) Removing the tank: Remove the three bolts that agree it in place. Two underneath, and one on the fender jam. Information technology will accept some jostling to remove the tank. Accept the tank to a radiator shop and enquire them to check for air leaks. They should exist able to re-seal the tank with solder or yous can do information technology with epoxy too, either style works just as skillful equally the other. vi. Check for cracked hoses. The vacuum lines may accept adult cracks. Audit all hoses nether bright lights. Supercede equally needed. Hope all this helps. Skilful Luck. Kenny/MrBlueOval
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How To Repair A 1977 Thunderbird Vacuum Motor,
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